Today was a big day for me.
First of all, I finally was able to live out that Ellington classic. I took the A Train to Harlem!!!! (More about that in a bit.) Secondly, I ate the best dessert I have ever had in my entire existence. (Again, more about that later.) Finally, I ended the day enjoying a concert featuring the vocal ensemble that first lit a fire in my wee little vocal Jazz heart. (You guessed it: more about that later.
I started the day by sleeping in a little bit. (This is, quite possibly, the most comfortable bed in which I've ever slept. My room is next to the house cleaning office and even with all of the movement there this morning, I didn't stir!!) I arranged with my friend Paul to meet for lunch and I got ready to do so. I had told him that I really wanted to go to Harlem and try a place about which Ted Quinlan had told me, and Paul agreed to join me.
Because we were heading to Harlem, we took the A Train. Now, here's the thing: usually song lyrics aren't entirely true.
- People can't really be "Islands in the Stream", can they?
- "The Reflex" is an action that is performed as a response to a stimulus and without conscious thought. It's not a lonely child who's waiting in the park.
- Some people might actually get annoyed if you "pour some sugar on them". That might get itchy.
However, taking the A train is, in fact, the quickest way to Harlem. Who knew?!
So, we took the A Train (and I resisted the urge to sing the song on the entire ride) and exited on 125th street. Do you know what else is on 125th Street? The Apollo Theatre!!! I was like walking past a little piece of history! We continued along 125th Street - also known as Dr. Martin Luther King Boulevard - to Lennox Avenue - also known as Malcolm X Boulevard and headed to an amazing restaurant called "Sylvia's". Now, Sylvia's is a well-known restaurant that has been operating for 48 years. They are famous for their home-cooked soul food. What is "soul food" you might ask? Well, that's exactly what Paul and I were wanting to find out.
Although it was a gorgeous day, we opted to eat inside, because that's where all the soul was. (The simple fact that we said something like that out loud is a clear indication that we shouldn't have been talking. And yet we continued to do so ... ) We were greeted by William, who wanted to sit us in an area with a few other white folks. However, we wanted to be where the action was, so he brought us to a different room inside and then decided that he was going to educate us on what the restaurant was all about. (That's probably because we asked him to tell us what the restaurant was all about.) I won't bore you with the details of how Sylvia's came to be the most famous restaurant in Harlem, unless you want to know. Suffice it to say, it was an amazing story and one that will make you want to return there again and again, just to support the restaurant. We both had a Sugar Hill beer and Sylvia's famous ribs. I had mine with a side of collard greens and lima beans (because I like my side dishes to rhyme) and Paul had candied yams and string beans. All I can say is that it was fantastic. Nothing fancy, just good old-fashioned home-cooked soul food. I felt more "r & b" just by eating it!!
Following lunch, Will (we were on a "shortened first name" basis by this point) took us on a little tour of the restaurant, explaining when the pictures on the wall were taken, etc. The people who have eaten there is quite amazing: Don King, James Brown, Magic Johnson, Bill Clinton (he had to stop once his heart started acting up), Denzal Washington (who had apparently eaten there when he was 15 years old and told Sylvia that he was going to be a big actor and would come back and see her then ... he kept his promise!), Beyonce, and ... wait for it ... LIZA MINNELLI!!! They do a gospel brunch every Sunday (imagine how fantastic THAT would be!!) and apparently one Sunday, Liza came in and asked to sit at a quiet table in the corner. They asked her if she would sing but she politely declined. However, when the band started playing "God Bless the Child" she couldn't help herself and joined in. She apparently tore the roof off the joint. Only in New York!!
Before we left, we had our picture taken with Will, and he thanked us so very graciously for making their restaurant a stop on our trip. I have to say this: I've rarely, if ever, felt so welcomed in an establishment. They make everyone feel as if they've just come home for a meal. Will would greet each guest with a big smile and some funny comment:
"Hey now, I hope you got your hungry on!"
"Well, you look like you could use some good eatin'. Glad you stopped in!"
"'Bout time you got here! We've been waitin' for you!"
Talk about a character!!
Paul and I left with our appetites and our spirits adequately satiated and fulfilled. We headed back to the subway and couldn't help but notice that: (a) we were two of the whitest people in the neighbourhood; (b) we felt comfortable and welcome there; (c) our speech patterns, accents, and vernacular were faaaaaarrrr less interesting than those of the people around us.
Yup ... this pasty white Irish Catholic girl from Newfoundland got herself a soul injection today!!
Can I get an "Amen"?!?!
(Too much?)
Stay tuned for the next chapter: Final night in New York ... Gordon Ramsay and New York Voices: the best finale there is!!
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